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THE STARTER SESSION IPA, FOUR FATHERS BREWING

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The folks behind Four Fathers are proof some of the best craft beers in the province are coming out of small places.

Rockwood, Ontario isn’t known for a whole lot other than its annual Farmer’s Parade of Lights, when neighbours deck out their combines and harvesters in a pile of Christmas lights and rumble down the village’s main street.

Four Fathers, which began commercial production in late 2015, have given tiny Rockwood another claim to fame: good craft beer. But that’s about to change.

Brewery co-founder and general manager Mike Hruden says Four Fathers is moving to Hespeler, where they’ll soon be opening a new production facility and long-awaited retail storefront.

If you want to get to know Four Fathers, one of my favourites is their flagship beer, The Starter Session IPA. This brew, which started appearing on LCBO shelves last fall ($3.10 for a 473ml can), is a strong entry into the session IPA category. It’s got everything you’d expect from the style – citrus fruit aromas, solid bitterness and a dry finish despite a subtle malt backbone that’s not always present in IPAs.

Ontario’s craft beer fans have been flooded lately with so-called session IPAs. But this one holds its own against some of the best in that style.

Another favourite from the Four Fathers stable is their nutty, malty and complex Shevchenko 9, a fine Ukrainian-style dunkel. If you’re a fan of dark, European beers, this is a can’t-miss.

What the brewery says (About The Starter):

“With a crisp and citrusy profile, our Galaxy hop driven IPA screams high draft pick beer stud, while its low 4.8 % ABV gives it the stamina to go the whole session, no matter how formidable the competition.”